Mylapore Mess Experience

Rayar’s Mess is located in the not-so-quiet lanes of Mylapore, nestled amongst the jumble of clustered houses and businesses. Don’t worry if you can’t find its exact location right away. As you arrive in the vicinity you will see bunches of food delivery agents hanging out at the beginning of the narrow lane that leads up to this eatery. The place was crowded on this Sunday morning and so our prospective wait time was 25 minutes for a table inside. However, once they heard me speak in Kannada, they asked if I was willing to stand and eat inside (if you are from Bengaluru, you will have no qualms about standing & eating like at a darshini).  The banana leaf service follows a nice sequence with flavorful Pongal at the beginning, served with chutney (and sambar, Chennai style). Then comes the medu vada and finally the meal is rounded off with idlis. They also serve chutney pudi with a choice of ghee or oil. The idlis were not big, but were fluffy and the sambar made the perfect pairing with them. The service is continuous and never is your plate empty till you desire it to be. What you finally end up eating is what you pay for on the honour system, as no one is keeping count of food served other than the person eating. You can buy a bottle of water or just get water served in a steel glass. The coffee can be black or with milk and sugar. There is extra decoction in the serving tray for those who might want their coffee stronger. While I was waiting for my coffee, I heard the server call out for a customer who had asked for coffee with extra sugar. The wait for my black coffee was in the lane outside, and it gave me time to contemplate on my food experience.

It might not be too far-fetched to say that the unassuming doorway to Rayar’s Mess is a portal, as once you enter, you are transported to the world of pure south Indian fare served fresh and piping hot like at a home. This modest place is owned and run by a family who understand the importance of feeding the best fare they can rustle up, day after day, to whoever comes asking for it. I sincerely wish for them to get a larger place for their operations. It does not look like the food has changed much in the 80 plus years of the eatery’s operations and it doesn’t need to either.