Omkareshwar & Mahakaal with everything in between

 

Completing the pilgrimage to all 12 Jyotirlingas is a profound undertaking that requires considerable time and thoughtful planning. Having reached the halfway point in my spiritual journey, I felt called to visit two more sacred shrines in central India, including one that marks the very centre of our world. What began as a casual conversation, with rough notes scribbled on the back of an envelope, evolved into a carefully planned pilgrimage blessed by Lord Ganesha's grace. While planning is essential, it is ultimately His divine grace that determines our destiny to experience these holy places.

First Day: Arrival and Omkareshwar Darshan

With Indore serving as our base, we set out to visit two revered shrines of Lord Shiva while also exploring the significant temples in the region.  Our spiritual journey commenced with prayers at the Annapurna Devi temple, followed by savouring the renowned Indori poha. We then travelled to Omkareshwar, having secured online bookings for expedited darshan. We also arranged for participation in the Narmada Aarti seva, though initially uncertain about what this sacred ritual would entail.

Omkareshwar stands as a sacred pilgrimage destination and island sanctuary in the Narmada River, Madhya Pradesh, celebrated as the home of the Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga - one of Hinduism's twelve most venerated shrines to Lord Shiva. The island's remarkable shape mirrors the sacred "Om" (ॐ) symbol, embodying Shiva's divine presence. The darshan experience feels like entering a mystical cave - profound yet fleeting, gone in the blink of an eye. Afterward, we admired the spectacular river views from the connecting bridge.

As the fourth among the twelve Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva, Omkareshwar's magnificence is celebrated in ancient texts including the Skanda Purana, Shiva Purana, and Vayu Purana. Situated on the Narmada River's northern bank in Madhya Pradesh, approximately 77 km from Indore, it uniquely stands as the sole Jyotirlinga along the river's northern shore. According to sacred beliefs, after traveling through the three worlds daily, Lord Shiva finds rest here. This divine tradition has established special sleeping ceremonies, rituals, and Shayan Darshan dedicated to Lord Shiva. (Reference: https://shriomkareshwar.org/)

Our journey continued to the mainland's southern shore, crossing to the opposite side of the Narmada River from Omkareshwar Island to visit the Mamleshwar Temple. This shrine, also consecrated to Lord Shiva as a Jyotirlinga, serves as Omkareshwar temple's complement, together forming one complete Jyotirlinga. We were blessed with a peaceful visit on Thursday following Ganesha Chaturthi, with minimal crowds. Subsequently, we returned to Omkareshwar and descended the serpentine steps to the riverbank. I felt deeply privileged to offer prayers to the sacred Narmada River, revered as the divine mother goddess (Narmada Maiyya) and the lifeline of both Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat. The hour-long ritual conducted under the auspices of Sri Omkareshwar Mandir Trust filled me with deep gratitude.

Second Day: Ujjain Temple Circuit

The following morning brought us to Ujjain, where we began our temple run at Chintaman Ganesha Temple. Dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries, this temple carries immense historical importance. Local tradition holds that Lord Ganesha himself descended to Earth to establish this sacred site, positioned across the Kshipra river on the Fatehabad railway line, approximately 7 km southwest of Ujjain town.

Our path led us next to Gadkalika Temple, where the legendary poet Kalidasa, devoted to Goddess Kalika, offered his worship. Kalidasa's masterpiece "Shyamala Dandak" serves as an exquisite hymn honouring Goddess Mahakali, believed to have been first recited by the great poet at this very location. Each year, preceding the Kalidasa Festival, devotees gather to worship Goddess Kalika here. The Skanda Purana recognizes Goddess Gadh Kalika among the twenty-four revered mother goddesses. We felt fortunate to receive darshan without the usual crowds, allowing us an unobstructed glimpse of Goddess Kalika in her full divine splendour. (More information: https://www.srimandir.com/temples/garhkalika-temple)

Continuing our pilgrimage, we arrived at Kaal Bhairav Mandir, a temple steeped in ancient history with legends tracing its origins over 6,000 years to King Bhadrasen, as documented in the Skanda Purana. Dedicated to Lord Kaal Bhairav, the fierce manifestation of Lord Shiva who guards the city, the temple showcases Maratha architectural style, with portions built upon an earlier temple's foundation. Remarkably, liquor offerings form part of the traditional worship here. Within the temple compound, we also paid respects to the single-faced Dattatreya at his abode.

Recently, Rajarshi Nandy, a respected spiritual teacher and author who champions Hindu Tāntrika and Śākta traditions, observed that "Shiva Is Returning to India as Bhairav," suggesting the need for more Bhairav temples to dispel spiritual ignorance.

Our temple pilgrimage continued to Mangalanath temple, regarded as a sacred site in Ujjain, believed to mark the world's geographical centre. The Puranas describe Mars as Earth's offspring, a planet that emerged from Earth itself. Hindu mythology recounts that Mangala (Mars) originated from Lord Shiva's divine essence. According to Mahant Rajendra Bharti, "Ugra" represents Mars' authentic name. Astrology encompasses the twelve zodiac signs, planets, constellations, and celestial elements, with Mars wielding particular influence, especially during challenging periods of your life.

Our journey brought us to Sandeepani Ashram, the sacred learning ground where Krishna and Balarama mastered 64 different arts and skills.

The Sacred Center: Mahakaleshwar

Finally, we reached what many consider the Earth's navel. The Varaha Purana establishes that Mahakaleshwar occupies the central point (Nabhi). This represents one of the most potent Jyotirlingas, and unprepared devotees may not fully comprehend the immense spiritual power Lord Shiva manifests here. This living Jyotirlinga continuously transforms, reflecting the devotee's inner state. Approach with your own mental and physical preparation to receive the full blessing of this Jyotirlinga darshan. The experience can be genuinely life-transforming and justifies any waiting or crowd navigation. All physical exhaustion dissolves upon receiving the divine darshan. The temple complex features the magnificent Mahakal Lok Corridor, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship depicting various Gods and Goddesses and their eternal battles against the Asuras.

Divine Mother's Blessings

Harsiddhi Mata represents a powerful aspect of Goddess Durga, worshipped for granting success and fulfilment, as her name literally means "bestower of all accomplishments." She receives special veneration at Ujjain's Harsiddhi Temple, one of the sacred Shakti Peethas, where tradition holds that her elbow fell following Sati's self-immolation. The temple's historic connection to Emperor Vikramaditya, who regularly sought her divine blessings, reinforces her reputation as the giver of divine strength and achievement.

This site stands among the 51 sacred locations dedicated to Goddess Sati. The temple maintains strong historical ties to the celebrated Emperor Vikramaditya, who worshipped regularly and received Harsiddhi Mata's blessings. When Lord Shiva carried Goddess Sati's body after her self-sacrifice, her elbow is believed to have fallen in this sacred kshetra.

Next morning we returned to Indore for some retail therapy and witnessed torrential rains of the most fierce kind. With a halt for lunch, we reached the airport to homeward bound from this once-in-a-lifetime trip.