e(eat)-City

The story of the ubiquitous fast food joints of Bangalore - the various ‘Darshinis’ and ‘Sagars’ is well known. This piece is about eateries that are so unobtrusive that when they are closed and don’t have their regular crowd milling about, they are easily missed as one drives past. These are places for breakfast and evening snack- tiffin to use the popular expression (also lunch for many). The plate with a dash of butter on top of the two-idli-mountain is a standard for non-dieters. The sight of small balls of butter floating in a large dish of water, waiting to top a masala dosa or idlis is de rigueur too.

They function in the space of a single room, where there is place just enough for the half a dozen or so workers and for cooking. A counter bars the entrance, across which the customers are handed their orders by the owner/manager who collects the money as well. In some of the places, there still is no token/ticket system. Often the customer himself gives an account of what he has eaten and pays up. As most of the customers are regulars, the system works well for both the parties. As one is eating, additional helpings of chutney keep coming across the counter routinely.

I have known such small joints since school / college and am grateful to them for the luxury of eating out they afforded even with my often meagre pocket money. Their pull on me has continued even now and I doubt that it will ever come down. The very basic infrastructure of these places allowed them to charge much less than the regular hotels in the past. However, some of these places have jacked up their rates now.

The city- mostly the traditional districts- is dotted with many such eateries for a quick bite of the yum traditional fare. A few of my favourites -

Veena Stores
Located in Malleswaram, on Margosa Road (in front of the telephone exchange). Much has been written about it the local dailies and this place has been ranked in the top 2 idly joints in Bangalore. The shop is open from early morning and has a limited menu starting with mouth-watering idlis /vadas and chutney with a tinge of mint; and Chow chow bhath (upma & sheera together). They also offer avalakki & shavige bhath most of the time. No dosas - no sambar - so what? Parking is a big challenge as it is located at a busy intersection. Closes by 7.30 pm. Also closed between 12.30 & 3 pm.

SLV
Located in Banashankari II Stage (opp to the Park on the way to the BDA complex). The idlis are nice and soft and a plate of idlis is called a ‘double’(double = 2 idlis). This place started off with a limited list and used to be great for the nearby colleges. It now has some additional stuff like dosa after 3.30 pm, and has added the joggers frequenting the park nearby to its clientile. This is closed on Sunday afternoons.

Raghavendra Stores
Located outside Malleswaram Railway Station on the 11th main road opposite Manipal Northside Hospital. This is a very small eating place just outside the railway station serves a limited fare only with chutney. One can park in the railway station (for a fee) and savour piping hot idlis, vadas, shavige bhath & chow chow bhath. Clubbing trainspotting with the little ones and wrapping up the trip with idlis here is a great idea. Closed on Tuesdays.

Brahmins Coffee Bar, Chamarajpet
Located diagonally opposite to the Shankarapuram post office, this joint still dishes out a limited fare of Idlis, vadas (all with only chutney) and quick service. What else do you need for breakfast or when you are just plain hungry. The place makes the service interesting in the way their people repeat the orders or call you to take your order. And you also get to hear the local political gossip. Closed Sunday afternoons and downs shutters around 7 every evening.

SLV Corner (fka Moolay hotel)
Near Ramakrishna Ashram, Basavanagudi. The moniker Moolay hotel comes from it having started off as a small corner shop, which graduated to the one you see today. From its extremely- crowded-because-of-no-space-to-stand-days, it has now transformed into a ‘standable- place’. Now you get everything here including the dessert “Chandrahara.” No longer holds the “small is beautiful” charm but has car service provided you find parking. On the opposite side of the old place, you have the service facility, a sweet stall, juices centre and what. This one has really turned the corner. Open all days.

Streets of Nagarathpet
Sun down & shutters down in the busy Chickpet & Avenue road area, guess who comes out. Not cops & others alone. You get finger-lickingly yummy dosas and idlis post 7.30 pm maybe upto 1 am. Don’t judge the place by the way it looks – there are families mostly from the business communities and oldtimers who are hooked to this place. If you have been in Bangalore for a while not eaten here, you definitely are missing something.

Vidyarthi Bhavan or Janatha Hotel
Thick masala dosas or crisp ones? Depending in which part of the town you are! The first one is located in the heart of Gandhi Bazaar vegetable market. Janatha Hotel is located in 8th cross Malleswaram. Park your cars and walk up to the place. The sights and sounds from the market nearby make it more interesting.

Cafesri (fka CTR)
Located opposite to the Malleswaram play ground. One has to wait a lot to get a table, but once the foods lands on your table, the wait gets worthwhile.

'Oil Street’
Sajjan Rao Circle, V.V.Puram. The street with V.B.Bakery at its entrance as one moves from Sajjan Rao Circle is the quickest to tickle your palate with its sheer variety per square inch. With its capsicum bajjis, fruit mix gulkand, corn specialities, rabadi, ‘avarekai’ fare (seasonal) and other novelties served to the customer in minutes, its fame is well deserved. Beware of the excesses (hence ‘oil street’) you would be tempted to indulge in! One can drive thru this street, but the parking is mainly in the adjoining streets.

Well there is NMH (near Minerva circle) and MTR (near Lalbagh Maingate) alas! quick bites are no longer possible! Not to forget Upahara Darshini (popularly known as UD located on DVG Road, the original ‘darshini’) for pioneering the way fast food joints serve food today.

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